tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78614770920748495812024-03-13T05:24:20.467-05:00All About Foundation RepairHave questions about foundation problems and repair? We can help!<br>
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If you're thinking about your home's foundation and its repair, equip yourself with knowledge and facts before you select a foundation repair company. You'll also find information for new home construction, plus remodeling information.<br>
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We also have information useful to business owners and commercial properties.<br>
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Call us at 972-272-1900 if you have questions about your foundation.Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.comBlogger112125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-39414750281208271492011-03-03T07:12:00.027-06:002011-03-08T08:29:47.319-06:00Piers for [New] Pools!<p>Again, I want to talk about swimming pools, even though it's early in the year and few of us are actually putting on swimming trunks anytime soon. What are we discussing this time? How about your brand new swimming pool?</p><p>Indeed, if you're thinking about adding a swimming pool to your home this season, then you need to consider <em>foundation piers for your swimming pool</em>. Why are foundation piers an important part of new pool construction? Because they support your swimming pool as the soil underneath it (and surrounding it) expands and contracts with different amounts of moisture. You wouldn't consider building a new house without proper support, so why would you build a swimming pool without proper support?</p><p>We may not give it much thought, but swimming pools are very heavy. Think about the structure that goes into building a pool and then add the weight of thousands of gallons of water. And, as with any heavy structure, your swimming pool needs support.</p><p>And, consider this. You have a very heavy structure "floating" in the soil of your backyard. And, just like a inflatable toy or chair bobbing in your pool, your swimming pool itself "bobs" in the soil, albeit at a much less noticeable rate. That is, as the amount of water in the soil changes, the soil expands and contracts, lifting and lowering your pool and pushing it from side-to-side. Your pool doesn't have to move much for damage to occur. Cracks and loose (and eventually leaking) plumbing are almost guaranteed when your pool moves too much.</p><p><b>Swimming pool repair isn't cheap</b> and <b>a broken swimming pool isn't usable or any fun</b>. It's just a great big hole in the ground.</p><p>So, when you are discussing pool construction with your swimming pool contractor, be sure to ask about how the pool is to be supported and about foundation piers for your new pool. If the pool contractor says piers aren't necessary, then run — don't walk — away and find yourself another contractor. The extra you spend now on proper pier support for you swimming pool is a lot less (and a lot less aggravation) than what you'll spend later on for pool repairs and installation of piers <em>after the new construction</em>.</p><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com47tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-79420431461129384632011-02-24T07:47:00.041-06:002011-03-08T08:11:55.946-06:00Time to Think About Your Swimming Pool<p>Here we are, deep in the midst of February, and I want to talk about your swimming pool. That's crazy, isn't it?</p><p>What's even more crazy is ignoring any cracks in your swimming pool, ignoring any paving or decking that looks like it's risen or sunk from the lip of the pool, and ignoring any mysterious leaks in the pluming which serves the pool. More likely than not, the swimming pool is the focus of your backyard and figures greatly into your family's plan for summer fun. It's also one of the largest investments a family makes in their home. So, it'd be crazy to ignore cracks, paving and decking problems, and plumbing problems with your swimming pool.</p><p>Why are these clues important and what do they have to do with foundations? Read on and find out.</p><p>Cracks in your pool indicate that one or more parts of your pool are moving in different directions and/or different rates than the rest of the swimming pool. This is exactly the same as what happens to your home's foundation: Changes in the moisture content of the soil around and under your swimming pool causes the pool (or parts of it) to shift up and down and side-to-side. Most people don't connect swimming pools with foundation piers, but <em>swimming pools are very heavy affairs</em> and need support. Think about how heavy the pool's structure is, and then add to that thousands of gallons of water, and you have a very heavy item riding on and in the soil.</p><p>If you see the paving or decking around your swimming pool rising or sinking below the edge of the pool, what may be happening is that the pool itself is moving, not the paving or decking. As with cracks in the pool, lifting and sinking of the swimming pool are indicative of soil problems.</p><p>As for plumbing leaks, these can be caused when the pool shifts and pulls the plumbing fittings loose or apart. Why did the pool shift? It could be that it is riding up and down, left and right, back and forth on soil that is expanding and contracting due to changes in its moisture content.</p><p>So, what can you do about this? First off, have a structural engineer look at the pool and determine what's going on. If indeed there's a problem with the pool moving about, then you need to consider <em>foundation piers</em>. Just as foundation piers support your home's foundation and limit its movement to negligible amounts, they can do the same for your swimming pool.</p><p>And, as with foundation repair on your home, the proper location and installation of piers under your swimming pool can be done with limited impact on your landscaping, decking, and schedule.</p><p>If you have questions about foundation piers for pools, feel free to call us at 972-272-19000 and we'll be happy to provide you with answers.</p><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-66459541164527375852011-02-17T07:30:00.029-06:002011-03-08T07:45:34.471-06:00<p>Below is another excellent question from our "<a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/Ask_Us_Anything_About_Foundation_Repair.asp">Ask Us Anything</a>" page on our <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">foundation repair</a> website.</p><p>Danny,</p><p>Thanks for the question. Without a deeper structural investigation, it is really difficult to identify the exact problem. You may want to hire an independent <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2011/01/foundation-repair-glossary-part-4.html">structural</a> <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2010/01/nearly-all-foundation-problems-stem.html">engineer</a> to look into it for you. If you call my office,(972) 272-1900, you can request a list of engineers to work from.</p><p>What I <b>DO KNOW</b> is that houses in this area are ALWAYS in a state of movement. That is directly tied to their dependence on the soil upon which they are built, clay soil. Clay soil is always in transition related to the infusion of moisture or the loss of moisture; when this soil absorbs water, like the melting snow and ice, it expands and lifts the house up with it</p><p>When we leave a wet season and enter our infamous Texas Summers, the soil starts to dry out, shrink, and contract in a downward motion. Of course, the house must follow the soil.</p><p>Most houses go through this 'slow motion roller coaster ride' without showing any stress signs greater than a few 'hairline' cracks in brick mortar or wall board, at least for their first couple of decades. BUT, they will 'snap, crackle and pop' as they go through the motions and that just may be what you have going on. The above mentioned 'roller coaster ride' is why you hear people harping on the subject of WATERING YOUR FOUNDATION. It is not the foundation which needs the water, but it is <em>the soil around it that does need the water</em> in order to limit the shrinking and pulling away from the foundation. But the opposite is true when we are getting a lot of rain: you want to make sure all excess runoff goes somewhere other than pooling next to your foundation.</p><p>I hope this simple answer helps you some. There a lot of other factors which can contribute to the situation such as the number of, size of, and placement of trees and shrubs; the contour of landscaping; the gutters; whether the home was built on fill dirt etc.</p><p>Feel free to contact me with any further questions I may be able to help with.</p><p>Sincerely,<br/>Alan Ardoin</p><br />
<p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-32194951656921490492011-02-11T07:41:00.001-06:002011-02-11T07:49:19.228-06:00Of Bedrock & Helical Piers; From "Ask Us Anything"<p>Ellen sent two questions into our "Ask Us Anything" page, so here's here second question and our answer. Be sure to go back and see her first question concerning <a href="">piers and load bearing walls</a>, if you haven't read that post, yet.</p><h2>Question</h2><p>Should a contractor ALWAYS be able to find bedrock if they drill<br />
in helical or steel piers?</p><h2>Answer</h2><p>Dear Ellen, another great question.</p><p>No, a contractor will not always find "bedrock" when installing <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/helical_piers.asp">Helical Piers</a> or <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/steel_piers.asp">Steel piers</a>, especially in the DFW Metroplex.</p><p>For starters, "bedrock" has a specific geological definition and is not found here in our area. This is why the contractor should make the effort to terminate their piers into "load bearing strata". The definition of load bearing strata can be a little subjective but it can also get technical. The main components of the definition, at least for my company, are: the pier should be at least 15' deep and should encounter a strata which produces enough resistance to support two times the weight of the structure it will carry.</p><p>Since any type of "rock" in this area of Texas can be at depths from 2 to 100 feet, <b>affordability</b> becomes a factor for the home owner. We have pushed our steel piers as deep as 98' in order to reach a strata that would not allow further advancement of the piers. This is where the helical piers come to the rescue of the budget.</p><p>The helical pier is designed to be installed at low speed and high torque until it bears into a strata which produces sufficient resistance to meet our criteria and then it is terminated. Sort of like when you screw a screw into a piece of lumber and the progress is easy until the screw reaches a harder layer of the wood and halts the process.</p><p>For example, where a thick bed of sand stone lies 85' deep and the steel pier would have to be driven that deep, the helical may only need to be advanced 35' deep to find a good strata for support. This is why my company has kept a database of the depths we have driven our steel piers on past jobs. When we are called to provide an estimate for a home owner, we can pull up past jobs nearest to their property and get a good idea where "load bearing strata" is and use that information to help advise the customer.</p><p>Again, feel free to forward any other questions you have and I will do my best to get you answers.</p><p>Sincerely,<br />
Alan Ardoin.</p><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-26498643585903102102011-02-10T06:57:00.048-06:002011-02-11T07:48:40.668-06:00Of Piers & Beams; From "Ask Us Anything"<p>If you haven't had a chance to check out the "Ask Us Anything" page on our website, then you're missing out. Here's the most recent question and our answer.</p><h2>Question</h2><p>1) How many beams would you expect to find under a home that is 63 feet wide and 26 feet deep, plus has a garage 18 by 18 added to the back of one side?<br />
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2) Should interior piers be placed under the beams if the foundation is getting raised at least 3 inches?<br />
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3) Would one expect to find a beam under a load supporting wall that runs 63 feet from the west to the east side down the center of the home (centered at 13 feet deep)?</p><h2>Answer</h2><p>Dear Ellen,</p><p>Great Questions! While we are not builders or construction engineers, we have developed some construction-related perspectives due to the multitude of houses we have sought to repair. I am going to attempt to answer your questions based on the presumption that the home of which you speak is built on a slab on grade concrete foundation.</p><p>The number of beams one would expect to find and the number of beams present, if any, can be quite different. I would <em>LIKE</em> to find three beams from side to side; one being directly under the primary load bearing wall and another seven (7) feet offset on either side of it. If the foundation is going to be lifted three (3) or more inches then, <em>YES</em>, I would want the piers placed to directly support the beams.</p><p>It is not a matter of whether the foundation <em>COULD BE LIFTED</em> if the piers are not under the beams, but <em>IT IS</em> a matter of whether anything less will assure you of a <em>LONG TERM HOLD</em> without breaking the foundation at the point of contact at each pier.</p><p>As far as a beam being <em>UNDER</em> the load bearing wall, that is where one would hope to find one. But rarely have we found that to be the case; the most common situation we find is where the load bearing wall sits off from the beam two to three feet.</p><p>Some other concerns for you to consider are the pier type and depth, the stress the lift will place on all plumbing and the preparation of gas and electrical connections so they will lift with the house without being broken. Also,if you have not hired an independent engineer to design the scope of work to be attempted then I would highly recommend that.</p><p>If you have any more questions we can address please let me know.</p><p>Sincerely,<br />
Alan Ardoin.</p><br />
Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-60214275251933392712011-02-03T03:08:00.049-06:002011-02-07T18:22:53.248-06:00Why Chimneys Fail<p>There aren't many days when North Texas home owners actually get to build a fire in their fireplaces. This translates into well over 300 days out of the year where the fireplace gets as much respect as last year's treadmill — used to hold lots of stuff but mainly ignored.</p><p>But, when we do get '<a href="http://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/online/articles/ybb01" target="_new">a Blue Norther</a>' blowing through, many home owners are thwarted in their efforts to enjoy the charm and warmth of a nice crackling fire. Now that they are ready to use their fireplace, many are stopped in their tracks when they notice daylight coming through the firebox or they can feel a cold draft coming in from outside. As their investigation leads them to bundle up and go outside, they are <b>shocked</b> to find that the chimney is falling away from their house and headed toward their neighbor's living room! It is at that moment that they are REALLY GLAD they didn't get to build a fire and risk burning down their whole house.</p><p>The bad news is that this happens to many North Texas fireplaces. The good news is that the majority of them can be saved to warm another day. Of course everybody wants to know: "WHY does my chimney not want to play well with the rest of the house?!"</p><p>I have seen many different fireplace scenarios over the years, such as the home owner who heard a very loud noise and discovered his entire chimney lying in his yard — it had been struck by lightning. Or the ones that were built inside of the house and were sitting on nothing but the floor for support-- those are not fun. But the majority of them are your standard fireplaces, built on the outer wall and bricked to match the house. In my years of experience I have reached the opinion that there are four primary reasons our fireplaces fail.</p><p>First of all, they are built tall, with a lot of weight and sitting on a very small concrete base. It is just a matter of time before the base gives way to the weight.</p><p>Second of all, the clay soil under the concrete base is always lifting and sinking as we go through the seasons and this works the chimney up and down and slowly gets it moving away from the adjoining wall.</p><p>Third of all, the tops of our fireplaces are constantly being impacted by strong winds which force outward directional movement.</p><p>And last but not least, they are almost never built with deep support piers under the base to help counter the other reasons.</p><p>Remember the good news: most failing fireplaces can be repaired and saved to "warm another day". What to do,what to do,what to do? You could call several foundation repair companies, but you risk going with a contractor <i>whose enthusiasm exceeds their skill</i> and it is too important of a problem to risk that. Your best bet would be to consult a structural engineer and proceed from there.</p><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-67388263566825035672011-01-27T06:16:00.065-06:002011-01-27T06:16:00.529-06:00What is a Footing?<p>The footing (a.k.a. "spread footing") is the bottom part of the foundation and is usually made of concrete and reinforced with steel (rebar). The footing forms the base of the foundation and spreads the vertical loads from building.</p><p>Footing requirements are usually covered by municipal building codes and sized with respect to the bearing capacity of the soil and the building's weight. While we typically don't need to worry about this in north Texas and southern Oklahoma, other areas may be subject to seasonal frost. In these areas, the bottom of the footing must be below the frost line to prevent damage to the footing because of frost heave.</p><h2>Types of Footings</h2><p>The most common types of footings are:</p><dl><dt>Spot Footings</dt>
<dd><p>A spot or pad footing is used to support a single point of contact, such as under a pier or post. Spot footings are usually a 2' by 2' square pad, 10" to 12" thick, and made with reinforced concrete.</p></dd>
<dt>Continuous Spread Footing</dt>
<dd><p>A continuous spread footing is mainly used to provide a stable base around the perimeter of a building. Spread footings are often augmented with interior spot footings. The spread footing supports the weight of the exterior or foundation walls. The thickness of the footing provides the necessary strength for that support. The wide width of the footing base provides a large area with which to transfer the weight from the walls to the ground. This is key to preventing settlement.</p></dd>
<dt>Grade Beam Footing</dt>
<dd>A grade beam footing is a continuous reinforced-concrete member used to support loads with minimal bending. Grade beams are capable of spanning across non-load bearing areas, and are commonly supported by soil or pilings.Grade beam footings differ from continuous spread footings in how they distribute loads. The depth of a grade beam footing is designed to distribute loads to bearing points, while the width of a continuous spread footing is designed to transfer loads to the ground.</dd>
</dl><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-35610610602838547132011-01-20T05:52:00.055-06:002011-01-24T18:58:21.472-06:00What Cold Weather Means for Your Foundation<p>When we think about building foundation problems in north Texas, we tend to think about Summer. Perhaps it's our nearly perennial droughts or maybe it's because we're outside in the yard more and we notice the soil more. In any case, you're among good company if thoughts of foundation problems are few and far between this time of year.</p><p>But, for all the Summer conditions that lead to foundation problems, there's a Winter condition, too. First off, where soil contracts due to lack of moisture during the Summer, it can expand during the Winter as ice storms, rains, and cold temperatures keep more water in the soil. Expanding soil can push a foundation upward; this is caused heave.</p><p>And, while we don't have the brutally cold winters like Chicago or Minnesota, it does indeed get cold in north Texas and southern Oklahoma. Frost damage can occur to foundations with unheated slabs on grade. <em>Frost heave</em> is caused when ice forms within the soil, causing overall volume of soil to increase. When the volume of soil increases, it can heave the foundation.</p><p>What can you do to prevent problems like excess moisture and frost heave? Try the following:</p><ul><li>Keep an eye out for the usual signs of foundation damage: cracks in the sheet rock, newly wrinkled wallpaper, stuck windows and doors, popped floor tiles, cracks in the fireplace, etc. Call a <a href="http://www.acefoundationrepair.com">foundation repair professional</a> if you see one or more of these problems and get an expert opinion right away.</li>
<li>The next time it rains, pull on a coat and some waterproof shoes or boots and take a walk around the exterior of your home. This is your chance to look for puddles against the foundation. <strong>You do not want water against the foundation!</strong> Wherever you find water pooling against the house, mark it with a stake or other marker. Hire someone to fix the drainage at these points. (Or, you can do it yourself.)</li>
<li>Check outdoor spigots and your sprinkler system for cracks and freezes. These items are your first line of defense come Spring and Summer, but now's the time that these items freeze and break.</li>
</ul><p>These simple winter foundation maintenance tips can make a big difference between comfort, costs, and your family's piece of mind — so be sure to take a few minutes now so you won't have big problems later.</p><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-43879332240579425152011-01-15T07:00:00.000-06:002011-01-24T19:26:20.260-06:00Foundation Repair Glossary, The Entire List<p>As promised, here's our complete <em>Foundation Repair Glossary</em> in one great big list. Remember, if you have a question about any of these terms, be sure to <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/Ask_Us_Anything_About_Foundation_Repair.asp">ask us</a>!</p><dl><dt style="font-weight:bold;">Active Zone</dt>
<dd> This is the depth of soil instability or movement, usually caused by changes in moisture. Sometimes, the active zone is referred to as the Seasonal Zone. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Bell Bottom Pier</dt>
<dd>A concrete pier that has a bell-shaped bearing surface.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Builder Piers</dt>
<dd> When the builder pours the grade beam for a pier and beam foundation, the builder piers are poured first. Builder piers are poured with a spacing of four to eight feet apart and to an average depth of three to four feet. These piers hold the grade beam in place. Sometimes builder piers fail, due to their low level of placement. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Clay</dt>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Crawl Space</dt>
<dd>The space between the bottom of the structure and the ground. This is common or necessary with pier and beam foundations. A properly engineered crawlspace allows enough room to vent moisture and allow for work on plumbing, electrical, and other utilities under the building.</dd> <dd> Composed primarily of fine-grained minerals, clay is a naturally occurring component of soil. Clay expands greatly when mixed with water but then significantly contracts when water is withdrawn. Soil expansion and contraction is one of the leading causes of foundation failure. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Deviation</dt>
<dd>Deviation is the amount by which the structure is not level. That is, the structure has <span style="font-style: italic;">deviated</span> from its specifications and true level. Naturally, a home with a great deal of deviation requires more work (piers) to bring it back to level.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Differential Settlement</dt>
<dd>The difference in movement vertically between different parts of the foundation; Non-trivial differential settlement can cause foundation failure.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Drilled Pier</dt>
<dd> Drilled piers involve drilling a hole at an angle to a predetermined depth under the slab, then using rebar to build a form in, then filling in the hole with concrete. If the conditions that caused the foundation to fail in the first place aren't remedied, then it's highly likely that the drilled pier will fail in time. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Elevation</dt>
<dd> Elevation is the series of measurements used to determine the difference in height between a central point and other points. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Engineers Report</dt>
<dd> An engineering report is done after a foundation has been repaired or before a structure is purchased. The report determines whether or not the foundation can perform its intended function and whether or not any remedial foundation repairs are necessary. In Texas, the report is a level "B" investigation (as described by the Texas Board of Professional Engineers and the American Society of Civil Engineers). The report will be sealed and signed by a Professional Engineer. The engineering report usually includes: Foundation Analysis, Interior Observations, Exterior Observations, Conclusions, Recommendations, and Photo File. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Epoxy Injection</dt>
<dd>Epoxy injection is used for concrete in manner similar to how welding is used for steel. That is, epoxy is used to fill cracks in concrete; often times, though, the cracks remain as weak point in the foundation.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Footing</dt>
<dd> Footings, typically constructed of steel-reinforced concrete, is the bottom part of the foundation. The footing spreads the vertical loads from the building sitting on top of the foundation. With slab foundations, the footing is usually two feet and runs the entire perimeter of the slab. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Foundation</dt>
<dd> A home foundation is that part of the structure that is in direct contact with the ground. The foundation transmits the weight of the entire home and itself to the supporting soil. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">French Drain</dt>
<dd> A drain that is used to collect water that migrates under ground. It is not used to collect large amounts of water from a heavy rain fall. French Drains are usually dug down 36-48 inches. Then 1 1/4” river rock is placed at the bottom of the trench and a 4” corrugated pipe is placed over this rock. Once in place, the trench is filled with river rock to approximately 4-6” below grade. The last 4-6” are then topped with soil and/or sod. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Galvanizing</dt>
<dd>Galvanized metal is made via an electromechanical process by which steel (or iron, or other metal) is coated with a non-rusting metal, such as zinc. The zinc simply isn't painted on the steel but rather is deposited and bonded to the steel via electrode position. The long and short of it all is that the steel is protected by the zinc and not subject to rust.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Grade</dt>
<dd>The level of ground surface. The grade can also refer to the rise or fall of the ground over a given distance.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Grade Beam</dt>
<dd> The grade beam is the concrete support that goes around the perimeter of a Pier & Beam foundation. This is what home and bricks are supported by along the perimeters. The concrete grade beam is, on average, poured 18-20 inches below soil grade and is reinforced with rebar laid inside the concrete for additional support. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Helical Pier</dt>
<dd>A helical pier is a steel shaft to which circular steel plates have been welded at an angle (thing of a large screw). Helical piers offer more resistance and support than traditional steel piers, which do not have steel plates.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Initial Site Inspection</dt>
<dd>An initial site inspection determines the most likely cause of damage and if it's caused by the foundation. The initial site inspection requires the inspector to gather lots of information including but not limited to structural and architectural drawings, grading plans, and plat of survey.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Jacking</dt>
<dd>A method by which a static driving force is performed on a pile by jacks.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Live Load</dt>
<dd>This is the additional weight added to a structure by people, furniture, snow, ice, water, etc.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Mudjacking</dt>
<dd>A foundation repair process used by some foundation repair businesses where water and soil cement or soil-lime-cement grout is pumped beneath the slab to lift the slab to the desired position. We recommend mudjacking <b>only</b> for flat concrete surfaces such as garage floors, driveways, pool and patio decks.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Pier</dt>
<dd>A support under a structure's foundation. Piers can be made of wood, steel, concrete and sunk into the ground or resting atop ground (for smaller structures).</dt>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Pier and Beam</dt>
<dd>A foundation construction method where the structure is supported several feet off the ground by pillars and posts or pilings (a.k.a. the piers).</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Pier Depth</dt>
<dd>The depth to which piers are sunk. Piers must reach a depth that provides adequate support. This means to bedrock or to a particular soil density. The deeper the piers must be sunk, the more expensive the foundation repair job will be.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Post-Tensioning Cable Foundations</dt>
<dd>A foundation construction technique where high-strength steel strands or cables, typically referred to as tendons, create a grid of steel cables that actively support the slab.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Pressed Pier</dt>
<dd>A pressed pier is made up of individual pilings that are pre-pressed and pre-formed. These pilings, in turn, are pressed into the ground using a hydraulic press. The individual pilings are locked to each other with steel shims or a piece of cable.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Rebar</dt>
<dd>Rebar, also known as reinforcing steel or reinforcement steel, is a common steel bar used to reinforced concrete.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Refusal</dt>
<dd> The condition reached when a pier can't be driven any farther, like when the pier reaches an impenetrable bottom such as rock). The term <em>refusal</em> may be used to indicate the specified minimum penetration per blow. Driving piers beyond refusal can damage the piers.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Retaining Wall</dt>
<dd>A retaining wall supports eroding soil in areas where the ground is likely to shift. Retaining walls can also provide additional support to foundations built up with fill dirt.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Root Barrier</dt>
<dd>Root barriers are physical barriers that redirect tree root growth downward, thus eliminating surface rooting that can damage foundations, sidewalks, driveways, and other <i>hardscapes</i></dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Settlement</dt>
<dd>Settlement occurs when a part of the foundation drops below the original as-built grade.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Slab</dt>
<dd>A concrete foundation supported entirely by the surface soil. Slab foundations are popular in most new residential construction in areas with high-clay soils, such as that found in north Texas and southern Oklahoma.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Soaker Hose</dt>
<dd>A gardening hose capped on one end and containing hundreds of tiny perforations. A soaker hose set next to a structure's foundation can help maintain a consistent moisture level within the soil and help prevent foundation movement and, consequently, foundation failure.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Soil</dt>
<dd>The collection of loose material, including air, water, and solid particles, comprising the Earth's crust. It's comprised of a mixture of mineral and organic materials in solid, gaseous and aqueous states. When discussing foundation construction, maintenance, and repair, we are most concerned with the moisture content of the soil.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Soil Stability</dt>
<dd>Soil material (clay, sand, etc.) and drainage play a big part in how much water the soil can contain and how often that soil is asked to contain that water. If the soil's moisture content changes often and/or a great deal, your foundation will move as the soil contracts and expands with moisture.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Soil Stabilization</dt>
<dd>This is the process by which a contractor improves the natural properties of soil to make it a better base for construction. Soil stabilization reduces or eliminates erosion, controls the movement of water through a given parcel of soil, and seeks to moderate the soil's moisture content.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Structural Engineer</dt>
<dd>An independent registered professional engineer that specializes in <strong>civil</strong> or <strong>structural</strong> engineering.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Subsidence</dt>
<dd>The sinking of all or part of a structure's foundation.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Sump Pump</dt>
<dd>A pump which removes water from a sump pit. (The sump pits simply a hole into which water is drained; the sump pit is commonly found in the basement.)</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Upheaval</dt>
<dd>The lifting of all or part of a structure's foundation.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Void Filling</dt>
<dd>A low pressure injection of grout slurry that fills the space between a foundation and the soil beneath the foundation.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Waffle Slab Foundation</dt>
<dd>Waffle slab foundations are formed when beams are poured throughout the interior until the pattern resembles a waffle.></dd> </dl><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-18224446355211352932011-01-13T07:53:00.002-06:002011-01-24T19:01:37.770-06:00Foundation Repair Glossary, Part 4<p>Here's the last post in our four-part series, Foundation Repair Glossary. This post catches us up on terms that didn't make it into the prior three posts. Don't worry — we'll post the entire glossary from start to finish so you have the whole thing at your fingertips!</p><dl><dt style="font-weight:bold;">Bell Bottom Pier</dt>
<dd>A concrete pier that has a bell-shaped bearing surface.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Crawl Space</dt>
<dd>The space between the bottom of the structure and the ground. This is common or necessary with pier and beam foundations. A properly engineered crawlspace allows enough room to vent moisture and allow for work on plumbing, electrical, and other utilities under the building.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Deviation</dt>
<dd>Deviation is the amount by which the structure is not level. That is, the structure has <span style="font-style: italic;">deviated</span> from its specifications and true level. Naturally, a home with a great deal of deviation requires more work (piers) to bring it back to level.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Differential Settlement</dt>
<dd>The difference in movement vertically between different parts of the foundation; Non-trivial differential settlement can cause foundation failure.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Drilled Piers</dt>
<dd>A pier formed by drill a hole at an angle to a predetermined depth, forming rebar within the hole, and then filling the hole with concrete (mixed with a curing agent). A drilled pier can be expected to fail if the conditions which caused the foundation to fail in the first place are not corrected.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Epoxy Injection</dt>
<dd>Epoxy injection is used for concrete in manner similar to how welding is used for steel. That is, epoxy is used to fill cracks in concrete; often times, though, the cracks remain as weak point in the foundation.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Galvanizing</dt>
<dd>Galvanized metal is made via an electromechanical process by which steel (or iron, or other metal) is coated with a non-rusting metal, such as zinc. The zinc simply isn't painted on the steel but rather is deposited and bonded to the steel via electrode position. The long and short of it all is that the steel is protected by the zinc and not subject to rust.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Helical Pier</dt>
<dd>A helical pier is a steel shaft to which circular steel plates have been welded at an angle (thing of a large screw). Helical piers offer more resistance and support than traditional steel piers, which do not have steel plates.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Initial Site Inspection</dt>
<dd>An initial site inspection determines the most likely cause of damage and if it's caused by the foundation. The initial site inspection requires the inspector to gather lots of information including but not limited to structural and architectural drawings, grading plans, and plat of survey.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Root Barrier</dt>
<dd>Root barriers are physical barriers that redirect tree root growth downward, thus eliminating surface rooting that can damage foundations, sidewalks, driveways, and other <i>hardscapes</i></dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Pier and Beam</dt>
<dd>A foundation construction method where the structure is supported several feet off the ground by pillars and posts or pilings (a.k.a. the piers).</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Pier Depth</dt>
<dd>The depth to which piers are sunk. Piers must reach a depth that provides adequate support. This means to bedrock or to a particular soil density. The deeper the piers must be sunk, the more expensive the foundation repair job will be.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Post-Tensioning Cable Foundations</dt>
<dd>A foundation construction technique where high-strength steel strands or cables, typically referred to as tendons, create a grid of steel cables that actively support the slab.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Pressed Pier</dt>
<dd>A pressed pier is made up of individual pilings that are pre-pressed and pre-formed. These pilings, in turn, are pressed into the ground using a hydraulic press. The individual pilings are locked to each other with steel shims or a piece of cable.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Rebar</dt>
<dd>Rebar, also known as reinforcing steel or reinforcement steel, is a common steel bar used to reinforced concrete.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Retaining Wall</dt>
<dd>A retaining wall supports eroding soil in areas where the ground is likely to shift. Retaining walls can also provide additional support to foundations built up with fill dirt.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Soaker Hose</dt>
<dd>A gardening hose capped on one end and containing hundreds of tiny perforations. A soaker hose set next to a structure's foundation can help maintain a consistent moisture level within the soil and help prevent foundation movement and, consequently, foundation failure.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Soil Stability</dt>
<dd>Soil material (clay, sand, etc.) and drainage play a big part in how much water the soil can contain and how often that soil is asked to contain that water. If the soil's moisture content changes often and/or a great deal, your foundation will move as the soil contracts and expands with moisture.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Structural Engineer</dt>
<dd>An independent registered professional engineer that specializes in <strong>civil</strong> or <strong>structural</strong> engineering.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Waffle Slab Foundation</dt>
<dd>Waffle slab foundations are formed when beams are poured throughout the interior until the pattern resembles a waffle.></dd></dl><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.<br />
</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-83839100867445355002011-01-11T07:55:00.002-06:002011-01-24T19:01:21.570-06:00Foundation Repair Glossary, Part 3<p>If you've missed our Foundation Repair Glossary <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2010/12/foundation-repair-glossary-part-1.html">Part 1</a> and <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2010/12/foundation-repair-glossary-part-1.html">Part 2</a>, then be sure to catch up now.</p><p></p><dl><dt style="font-weight:bold;">Slab</dt>
<dd>A concrete foundation supported entirely by the surface soil. Slab foundations are popular in most new residential construction in areas with high-clay soils, such as that found in north Texas and southern Oklahoma.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Soil</dt>
<dd>The collection of loose material, including air, water, and solid particles, comprising the Earth's crust. It's comprised of a mixture of mineral and organic materials in solid, gaseous and aqueous states. When discussing foundation construction, maintenance, and repair, we are most concerned with the moisture content of the soil.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Soil Stabilization</dt>
<dd>This is the process by which a contractor improves the natural properties of soil to make it a better base for construction. Soil stabilization reduces or eliminates erosion, controls the movement of water through a given parcel of soil, and seeks to moderate the soil's moisture content.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Subsidence</dt>
<dd>The sinking of all or part of a structure's foundation.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Sump Pump</dt>
<dd>A pump which removes water from a sump pit. (The sump pits simply a hole into which water is drained; the sump pit is commonly found in the basement.)</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Upheaval</dt>
<dd>The lifting of all or part of a structure's foundation.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Void Filling</dt>
<dd>A low pressure injection of grout slurry that fills the space between a foundation and the soil beneath the foundation.</dd></dl><p>Do you have questions about our <em>Glossary of Foundation Repair Terms</em>? If so, then <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/Ask_Us_Anything_About_Foundation_Repair.asp">ask us</a> and we'll get you the answer. Be sure <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">to visit our website</a> to learn more about foundation construction, maintenance, and repair.</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-55278586799719244862011-01-06T09:35:00.002-06:002011-01-24T19:01:04.780-06:00Foundation Repair Glossary, Part 2<p>This is the second part in our glossary of foundation repair terms. Be sure to check out <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2010/12/foundation-repair-glossary-part-1.html">Part 1</a>.</p><dl><dt style="font-weight:bold;">Grade</dt>
<dd>The level of ground surface. The grade can also refer to the rise or fall of the ground over a given distance.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Jacking</dt>
<dd>A method by which a static driving force is performed on a pile by jacks.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Live Load</dt>
<dd>This is the additional weight added to a structure by people, furniture, snow, ice, water, etc.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Mudjacking</dt>
<dd>A foundation repair process used by some foundation repair businesses where water and soil cement or soil-lime-cement grout is pumped beneath the slab to lift the slab to the desired position. We recommend mudjacking <b>only</b> for flat concrete surfaces such as garage floors, driveways, pool and patio decks.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Pier</dt>
<dd>A support under a structure's foundation. Piers can be made of wood, steel, concrete and sunk into the ground or resting atop ground (for smaller structures).</dt>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Refusal</dt>
<dd> The condition reached when a pier can't be driven any farther, like when the pier reaches an impenetrable bottom such as rock). The term <em>refusal</em> may be used to indicate the specified minimum penetration per blow. Driving piers beyond refusal can damage the piers.</dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Settlement</dt>
<dd>Settlement occurs when a part of the foundation drops below the original as-built grade.</dd> </dl><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.<br />
</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-81678076649811720302011-01-04T08:55:00.002-06:002011-01-24T18:59:50.626-06:00Foundation Repair Glossary, Part 1<p>We'd thought we'd do something a little different over the next few posts and present a glossary of terms commonly used when discussing building foundation construction and repair. <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/contact_ace_foundation_repair.asp">Let us know what you think</a>!<br />
</p><dl><dt style="font-weight:bold;">Active Zone</dt>
<dd> This is the depth of soil instability or movement, usually caused by changes in moisture. Sometimes, the active zone is referred to as the Seasonal Zone. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Builder Piers</dt>
<dd> When the builder pours the grade beam for a pier and beam foundation, the builder piers are poured first. Builder piers are poured with a spacing of four to eight feet apart and to an average depth of three to four feet. These piers hold the grade beam in place. Sometimes builder piers fail, due to their low level of placement. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Clay</dt>
<dd> Composed primarily of fine-grained minerals, clay is a naturally occurring component of soil. Clay expands greatly when mixed with water but then significantly contracts when water is withdrawn. Soil expansion and contraction is one of the leading causes of foundation failure. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Drilled Pier</dt>
<dd> Drilled piers involve drilling a hole at an angle to a predetermined depth under the slab, then using rebar to build a form in, then filling in the hole with concrete. If the conditions that caused the foundation to fail in the first place aren't remedied, then it's highly likely that the drilled pier will fail in time. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Elevation</dt>
<dd> Elevation is the series of measurements used to determine the difference in height between a central point and other points. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Engineers Report</dt>
<dd> An engineering report is done after a foundation has been repaired or before a structure is purchased. The report determines whether or not the foundation can perform its intended function and whether or not any remedial foundation repairs are necessary. In Texas, the report is a level "B" investigation (as described by the Texas Board of Professional Engineers and the American Society of Civil Engineers). The report will be sealed and signed by a Professional Engineer. The engineering report usually includes: Foundation Analysis, Interior Observations, Exterior Observations, Conclusions, Recommendations, and Photo File. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Footing</dt>
<dd> Footings, typically constructed of steel-reinforced concrete, is the bottom part of the foundation. The footing spreads the vertical loads from the building sitting on top of the foundation. With slab foundations, the footing is usually two feet and runs the entire perimeter of the slab. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Foundation</dt>
<dd> A home foundation is that part of the structure that is in direct contact with the ground. The foundation transmits the weight of the entire home and itself to the supporting soil. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">French Drain</dt>
<dd> A drain that is used to collect water that migrates under ground. It is not used to collect large amounts of water from a heavy rain fall. French Drains are usually dug down 36-48 inches. Then 1 1/4” river rock is placed at the bottom of the trench and a 4” corrugated pipe is placed over this rock. Once in place, the trench is filled with river rock to approximately 4-6” below grade. The last 4-6” are then topped with soil and/or sod. </dd>
<dt style="font-weight:bold;">Grade Beam</dt>
<dd> The grade beam is the concrete support that goes around the perimeter of a Pier & Beam foundation. This is what home and bricks are supported by along the perimeters. The concrete grade beam is, on average, poured 18-20 inches below soil grade and is reinforced with rebar laid inside the concrete for additional support. </dd> </dl><p>We'll keep these rolling over the next few posts. As always, if you have a question, feel free to <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/Ask_Us_Anything_About_Foundation_Repair.asp">ask us anything about foundation construction and repair</a>!<br />
</p><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.<br />
</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-61304323589818715122010-12-28T05:52:00.001-06:002011-01-24T18:59:21.563-06:00Pier & Beam versus Slab Foundation, Part 2<p>This is the second part in our multi-part series of posts, "Pier and Beam versus Slab Foundation." Be sure to read the <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2010/08/pier-beam-versus-slab-foundation-part-1.html">first post in this series</a>, if you haven't already.<br />
</p><p>In our last post, we discussed pier and beam foundations (sometimes called post and beam foundations), including what they were, and their pros and cons. In this post, we'll covered the basics of <em>slab foundations</em>.<br />
</p><h2>The Basics</h2><p>Slab foundations are usually the easiest (and thus the least expensive) foundations to build. The slab is a flat concrete pad poured directly on the ground. This takes minimal site preparation, very little formwork for the concrete, and less labor to build than a pier and beam foundation. Slab foundations work well on level sites in warmer climates (like what we have here in north Texas and southern Oklahama). Slab foundations can be problematic farther north because when the ground freezes during winter, this freezing may shift the slab. This may damage the structure sitting on the foundation, plumbing running through and under the foundation, and the foundation itself.<br />
</p><h2>How Slab Foundations are Constructed</h2><p>In most cases, the perimeter of the slab is about 2 feet deep. The interior of the slab can be as little as 4 or 6 inches thick. Below the slab sit a 4 to 6 inch layer of gravel. To keep moisture from the ground rising through the gravel to the slab, a 4-millimeter sheet of plastic is placed. Reinforcing bar (rebar) is laid out in a grid framework (supported a few inches above the plastic sheet) and the concrete is then poured over everything.<br />
</p><p>This type of foundation is commonly called a <em>floating slab</em> since it "floats" on the soil. What holds the foundation in place is the deeper layer of concrete around the perimeter of the foundation.<br />
</p><p>In places with common and severe winter freeze, the concrete along the perimeter extends below the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frost_line" target="_new">frost line</a>.<br />
</p><h2>The Advantages and Disadvantages of a Slab Foundation</h2><p>Slab foundations offer the following advantages:<br />
</p><ul><li>Slab foundations usually take less time to construct.</li>
<li>Slab foundations require less prep work of the site.</li>
<li>Typically, slab foundations cost less, due to the two points above.</li>
<li>Since there is no crawlspace under the home, there's no risk of animals getting underneath the structure.</li>
<li>Since the slab sits on the ground, entries and exits to and from the structure are close the ground -- perhaps only a step or two. This is good news for those with disabilities or other restrictions that makes steps difficult to navigate.</li>
</ul><p>On the other hand, there are a few drawbacks to slab foundations:<br />
</p><ul><li>Since the plumbing and gas lines (if applicable) run directly through the concrete slab, it's more expensive to fix these problems below the home. Also, shifts in the foundation can break pipes (fresh water, sewer lines, and gas).</li>
<li>Once a foundation has failed, it can be more expensive to fix the foundation since piers have to be sunk below the home. (In contrast, a pier and beam already has piers, which may only need adjustment.)</li>
<li>Slab foundations cannot be used in homes where a basement will be built.</li>
<li>Slab foundations cannot be used in areas with significant or prolonged freezes. The seasonal upheaval and other shifts can destroy a slab foundation.</li>
<li>Concrete slabs can crack. These cracks can range from minor annoyances to major problems.</li>
</ul><p>Concrete slabs can be a good choice for your home or business, but it has to be done right from the get-go, and only for the right type of conditions. If you have quesitons, feel free to <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/contact_ace_foundation_repair.asp">contact us</a> or <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/Ask_Us_Anything_About_Foundation_Repair.asp">shoot us a question</a>.<br />
</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-78490321429293011512010-12-23T07:58:00.001-06:002011-01-24T19:02:09.224-06:00Pier & Beam versus Slab Foundation, Part 1<p>The two most common types of building foundations in north Texas and southern Oklahoma are pier & beam foundations and slab foundations (also known as "slab on grade" foundations). As a rule of thumb, most foundations for homes built during the 60's and before are pier and beam while those built later are slab foundations. So, why the change in foundation types, how exactly is each type of foundation constructed, and what are the pros and cons of each? We'll cover each question over the next several blog posts and, as always, you can <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/Ask_Us_Anything_About_Foundation_Repair.asp">ask us your questions about foundation construction, repair, and maintenance</a> and we'll give you the answers.<br />
</p><h2>Pier and Beam Foundations</h2><p>Pier and beam foundations (sometimes called post and beam foundations) have a crawl space (typically at least 18 inches) between the home and the ground. The base of the building is uses a series of beams supported above the ground via piers. This type of foundation takes longer to construct than a slab foundation, but allows easier access to heating and plumbing utilities. (With a slab foundation, it may be necessary to break through the concrete slab foundation to service or repair plumbing and such.)<br />
</p><p>Since the piers separate the structure from the ground, the foundation is less susceptible (as compared to slab foundations) to damage from the ground shifting. When ground shifting occurs and the foundation needs adjusting, the piers are more easily adjusted than is a slab foundation.<br />
</p><p>The advantages of a pier and beam foundation are:<br />
</p><ul><li>Provides easy access to service plumbing, electrical and other issues under the house.</li>
<li>In many cases, pier and beam foundation problems can be less expensive to fix than problems with slab foundations.</li>
<li>Some remodeling projects and home additions are more easily accomplished with pier and beam homes than with slab foundations.</li>
<li>Since the structure isn't resting directly on the ground and air is a natural insulator, the temperature within the structure may take less energy to maintain. That is, your home isn't sitting directly on the cold hard ground during the winter and, thus, your heating bills can be less.</li>
<li>Many people feel that floors supported by a pier and beam foundation have a bit more give and are therefore more comfortable. This is not to say the floor rebounds like a trampoline as you walk across it, but <em>there is a difference</em> according to many homeowners.</li>
</ul><p>The disadvantages of a pier and beam foundation include the following:<br />
</p><ul><li>Pier and beam foundations take longer to construct than slab foundations. This increases the cost of the home or other structure.</li>
<li>Floors supported by pier and beam foundations may creak and move.</li>
<li>Broken vent screens and insufficient other barriers may allow bugs and rodents to get under the structure.</li>
<li>Pier and beam foundations have to be vented properly to reduce moisture. Sufficiently high moisture levels can lead to mold, rotting wood, musty smells.</li>
</ul><p>In our next post, we'll discuss slab foundations.<br />
</p><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.<br />
</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-62344758424651487792010-12-16T07:08:00.001-06:002011-01-24T19:02:26.540-06:00Do Steel Piers Rust?"Do steel piers rust?" That's not an uncommon question.<br />
<br />
The short answer is "No."<br />
<br />
Steel piers are galvanized, which prevents rust. When steel is galvanized, it is dipped in molten zinc, which forms a chemical bond to the steel. Galvanized steel products gain good protection against rust and failure when used above or below grade. You can tell when an item has been galvanized, due to its unique silver color.<br />
<br />
Wikipedia has a pretty good, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanization">technical description of galvanization</a>. You can read it <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanization">here</a>. <br />
<br />
Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-47431552364725188972010-12-09T07:03:00.001-06:002011-01-24T19:02:46.569-06:00A Great Soaker Hose TipIn our last post, we discussed <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2010/08/soaker-hoses-revisited.html">soaker hoses and regulating the moisture around and under your foundation</a>. This time around, we have a tip for a problem many people have when using soaker hoses.<br />
<br />
<i><b>What do you do if, by the time you've connected all your soaker hoses together, there's not enough pressure at the end of the last hose?</b></i><br />
<br />
The first thing you need to do is understand why this occurs. The pressure is dropping at the end of the hose because there's too much hose for the amount of pressure provided at the water spigot. By the time the water reaches the farthest lengths of the hose, the pressure has dropped so much that the water isn't forced out the tiny perforations in the soaker hose.<br />
<br />
The next thing to do is to see if there are additional water spigots you can use. Instead of stringing all your soaker hoses from one spigot, split your soaker hoses among two or more. If you're afraid of using all your spigots for just soaker hoses, you can purchase multi-headed spigots that attach to the spigot coming out of the wall. That way, you can hook up the soaker hose and still have a connection free for other uses when you're not using the soaker hose.<br />
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If you can't use additional spigots, you can alternate traditional hoses with soaker hoses. Since a traditional hose doesn't lose water from the tiny perforations like a soaker hose does, then it maintains a higher pressure through its length. With a combination of soaker hoses and regular garden hoses, you can reach the farther parts of your foundation and still maintain adequate pressure. You may have to run two sets of alternating hoses (call them <b>Line A</b> and <b>Line B</b>). Make sure when setting the two lines that where Line A's soaker hose(s) alternate with Line B's soaker hoses. When it comes time to use the soaker hoses (about once or twice a week, depending on soil conditions), connect Line A and run for 30 or more minutes, then disconnect and run Line B for 30 or more minutes. In this way, you'll water the entire perimeter of the foundation, yet each hose is only responsible for half the task.<br />
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Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-55674799413405446752010-12-02T07:05:00.001-06:002011-01-24T19:03:06.235-06:00Soaker Hoses, RevisitedWith all the rain we had in September, you might think we're nuts to be talking about soaker hoses again, but there's a good reason.<br />
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Soaker hoses are one of the best tools in the homeowner's toolbox for regulating soil moisture. Now that we're approaching the end of summer, it's a good time to get outside and check your soaker hoses for proper placement and overall condition. Make sure the soaker hose is buried about three inches deep and about six inches from the edge of the foundation so that the soil is soaked evening.<br />
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<b style="color: red;">Do not place the hose <i>against</i> the foundation.</b> Water placed next to the foundation (say, provided by a soaker hose placed <i>against</i> the foundation) runs through the cracks and pools at the bottom of the grade beam. (The <b>grade beam</b> is the thick portion of the foundation that is under the exterior walls.) The accumulation of water at the base of a foundation over time can reduce the soil's capacity to bear a load. When the soil loses enough load bearing capacity, the foundation will sink and your house can be damaged!<br />
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While you're checking the soaker hoses' position, don't forget to check the condition of the hose. Soaker hoses are pretty simple things. If you find a leak, tape it using duct tape (or similar tape -- ask at your local hardware store for appropriate substitutes). If the soaker hose is cracked or leaking from one of the fixtures or connections, replace the hose. The few dollars you spend on a new hose is a whole lot let than you'll spend on foundation repair.<br />
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Do you have questions about soaker hoses and your foundation? <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/Ask_Us_Anything_About_Foundation_Repair.asp">Then ask us</a>! In fact, <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/Ask_Us_Anything_About_Foundation_Repair.asp">you can ask us anything about foundation construction, repair, and maintenance</a>. We love questions, so ask away!<br />
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Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-26022707104556135762010-11-25T07:00:00.001-06:002011-01-24T19:03:49.176-06:00Root Barriers, Revisted<b>What's a root barrier and why is it important?</b> Root barriers are physical barriers that redirect tree root growth downward, thus eliminating surface rooting that can damage foundations, sidewalks, driveways, and other <i>hardscapes</i>.<br />
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Remember, roots travel <i>away</i> from the tree trunk as the tree searches for water. Often times, tree roots gravitate towards the building foundation. Once roots reach the foundation, they may press into the foundation and break it, lift it, lower it, or otherwise shift it. Each of these movements can cause significant damage to your foundation.<br />
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Also, note that the roots can suck the moisture from the soil, thereby leaving it dry. Dry soil contracts, which can cause the foundation to shift. This is another unpleasant and damaging side effect of tree roots interacting with your foundation.<br />
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A root barrier can prevent roots from causing this damage to your foundation.<br />
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Root barriers surround the structure and prevent tree roots from getting under the foundation. While you may consider a root barrier a "nice to have" rather than a necessity, keep in mind that root barriers are usually much, much less expensive than foundation repair.<br />
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Ace Foundation installs a tough, flexible material designed to resist cracking due to soil movement or new root pressure. (Other foundation repair companies may use concrete or plastic (corrugated vinyl, for instance), but we've found these to be less reliable than the material we use. If another foundation repair company recommends concrete, think back to any number of sidewalks you've seen, cracked and pushed up by tree roots!<br />
<h2>Learn More with Our Root Barrier Video</h2><br />
We've prepared a great video which shows exactly what root barriers are and how they protect your home or business' foundation.<br />
<a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/video_root_barrier.asp"><img alt="Root Barriers Video" align="right" src="http://www.acefoundation.com/uploads/videos/animation-thumb01.jpg" /></a><br />
<b><a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/video_root_barrier.asp" style="text-decoration: underline">Watch the Video</a></b><br />
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Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-46391757143871752252010-11-18T10:31:00.001-06:002011-01-24T19:04:08.538-06:00Piers for Pools (cont'd)This is the second part of a post concerning foundation piers for swimming pools. If you missed <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2010/07/piers-for-pools.html">the first part</a>, take a look at <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2010/07/piers-for-pools.html">last Tuesday</a> and get caught up.<br />
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Steel piers are the preferred choice when installing or augmenting piers for swimming pools. The advantages you get with steel piers for home and commercial & industrial foundations apply to swimming pools, as well. Steel piers don't require curing time like concrete does, so construction time is reduced. Steel piers require a smaller "footprint" when they are constructed. Steel piers are incredibly sturdy and a proven reliable solution.<br />
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One important thing to note about piers for pools is that <i>the piers shouldn't be anchored to the pool</i>. Why, you ask? Because the pool must be free to move a little bit. The pool is going to move no matter what; the key is that it's only allowed to move so much before it is stopped or stabilized. If the pool is anchored to the piers, then when the soil around and under the pool expands or contracts and pushes or drops the pool a bit, the pool is going to crack where the piers are anchored to it. This is because the pool is trying to move but is tied down at the piers.<br />
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Be sure to check out some of our <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2010/03/piers-and-pools-slide-show.html">slide shows for piers for pools</a> and <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/contact_ace_foundation_repair.asp">let us know what you think</a>.<br />
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Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-78464135391190592752010-11-11T10:29:00.001-06:002011-01-24T19:04:41.156-06:00Piers for PoolsWe've talked about piers for pools before, but now's a good time to recap. If you have a swimming pool, then no doubt you've had a chance to enjoy it. Did you notice anything different about your pool while you were out there?<br />
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For instance, does the water line appear to be at a kilter? In other words, is it not level? If this is the case, then part of the pool is higher than the other, which gives the appearance of the water being lopsided. It may be subtle, maybe an inch or two across the entire pool, or it could be more pronounced. Whatever the degree, this means that one end of the pool or the other has shifted up (down). Much like when you hold a glass of water and tilt the glass, the water stays level but runs diagonally across the glass, your pool is tilting and the water appears to run diagonally (though, not as dramatically as that glass of water).<br />
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This is the same behavior as when part of the foundation of your house lifts or drops. It means that the soil in or around your pool (or building foundation) has swelled or shrunk and the foundation has moved as a result. And, just as with your house, the shifting of your pool can cause problems. Sometimes the problems are cosmetic. For instance, the lip of the swimming pool can rise above or drop below the surface of the sidewalk or deck around it. On the other hand, more serious problems can occur, such as stressing and breaking the plumbing or creating cracks.<br />
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What can you do when this happens? Well, you can address it just as you would with your residential foundation or commercial foundation: You can level and stabilize your swimming pool with foundation piers. You can prevent further problems and correct existing ones when your swimming pool is back to level and no longer moving in unpredictable directions and amounts. Adding piers to the pool or augmenting existing piers with new ones is the best way to protect your investment in one of the most expensive additions to your home, and it insures that you and your family can enjoy your pool -- rather than regretting it.<br />
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In our next post, we'll discuss the specifics of steel piers for swimming pools.<br />
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Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/">www.AceFoundation.com</a>. Or, feel free to <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/Ask_Us_Anything_About_Foundation_Repair.asp">ask us anything</a>! We love questions -- and we've gotten some really good ones lately. Fill out our <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/Ask_Us_Anything_About_Foundation_Repair.asp">Ask Us Anything</a> form and look for your answer in your email. Plus, we'll update this blog and our website<a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/">http://www.acefoundation.com</a> with the questions and answers we've received and given over the last few months.Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-18859463705589402202010-11-04T08:14:00.001-05:002011-01-24T19:05:05.051-06:00What to Do After Your Foundation Has Been LeveledWe discuss quite often how to maintain your foundation and prevent foundation failure. Just as important, though, is knowing what to do <i><b>after</b></i> you've had foundation work done. Below are tips you should follow after your foundation has been leveled.<br />
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<ol><li>Maintain a consistent moisture level in the soil adjacent to the slab foundation. You can keep the moisture content consistent by evenly watering next to the foundation slab, especially during dry periods. There are a couple of ways to do this.<br />
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First, use a buried foundation watering system with the water line buried twelve inches away and at the depth of the grade beam. The system should have a rain cutoff switch and a flow control box with a filter (the filter prevents sediment from clogging the line).<br />
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Or, put soaker hoses around the edge of the foundation, seven to twelve inches from the grade beam. Remember to use the soaker hoses on a schedule or buy a battery-operated, programmable timer.<br />
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Of the two methods above, the second can waste more water due to evaporation and run-off. Finally, keep in mind that watering the foundation does not <i>fix</i> existing foundation problems -- it's only a maintenance method.</li>
<li>Make sure water drains away from the slab perimeter. Eliminate all standing water near the foundation slab. This evens out the moisture content underneath the slab and lessens soil movement beneath the slab foundation.</li>
<li>Be sure large trees near the concrete foundation slab get plenty of water. Avoid high growth of dense vegetation near the concrete foundation slab, as well. When you water trees -- especially in dry periods -- you help even out the soil's moisture content beneath and around the foundation slab.</li>
<li>Make sure that the slab is at least three to four inches above the finished ground, including flowerbeds and other landscaped areas. The flowerbeds should slope <i>away</i> from the slab. This prevents water from draining to underneath the foundation and keeps water from pooling at the edge of the foundation.</li>
<li>Make sure the plumbing system, potable water lines, and sewer lines are checked periodically for leaks. A licensed plumber can perform these tests for you. Remember, water leaks cause differential moisture content and ultimately contribute to foundation failure.<i> </i> </li>
</ol>We hope you find these tips useful. A lot of them are also good maintenance ideas even if you haven't had your foundation leveled. Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-77702233511443102912010-10-28T16:57:00.001-05:002011-01-24T19:05:26.029-06:00Waffle Slab Foundation<div style="float: right; margin-left: 2em; width: 150px;"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_N2_D2iAJwtE/TEjpWnoaKsI/AAAAAAAAAXo/DKA3VNfrqbE/s144/waffle-pod-forms-sm.jpg" style="width: 150px;" /><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt; font-weight: bold;">Waffle slab prior to concrete being poured.</span></div>In our last blog post, we discussed <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2010/07/post-tensioning-concrete-foundations.html">post-tensioning cable foundations</a>. This time around, we'd like to discuss another development in building foundations, waffle slab foundations.<br />
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Waffle slab foundations are formed when beams are poured throughout the interior until the pattern resembles a waffle. While the jury may still be out when it comes to how effective post-tensioned cable foundations are, waffle designs have shown themselves to be more likely to create a stiff foundation which results in the whole house moving, rather than just a certain portion of it.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 8pt; font-weight: bold;">Another view of a waffle pod slab prior to concrete being poured.</span></div>Waffle pod foundation construction uses less concrete than traditional methods of edge beam and internal beam. This keeps construction costs down. Labor costs may be reduced, as well, since significant trenching (which is labor intensive) can be eliminated.<br />
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Unfortunately, this type of foundation requires <b>more piers</b> than traditional slab foundations when it comes time to level things. More piers means more expense. Please keep this in mind when you are considering the savings in construction — you may end up giving it all back when it comes time to fix the foundation.<br />
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Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-31125229023329248192010-10-21T11:20:00.001-05:002011-01-24T19:05:50.837-06:00Post-Tensioning Concrete Foundations<div style="float: right; margin-left: 2em; width: 150px;"><img alt="Image by Flickr user GeekMojo" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/170/416649057_1a83d5276a.jpg" width="150" /><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt; font-weight: bold;">Traditional rebar (but blue!) in place and ready for concrete to be poured for a foundation. Photo by Flickr user GeekMojo</span></div>Traditionally, concrete slab foundations are reinforced with steel bars, called re-bar (or rebar) -- short for "reinforcing bars." This technique of reinforcing concrete and similar materials originated in 1867 with a French florist named Joseph Monier. His experiments in making a stronger flower pot ultimately led to embedding reinforcing bars in the pots as they were formed and before they were kiln dried.<br />
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Post-tensioning concrete foundations are the next wave beyond traditional concrete slabs. With post-tensioning slabs, high-strength steel strands or cables, typically referred to as tendons, create a grid of steel cables that actively support the slab. Traditional rebar construction is "inactive" only really helps keep the slab intact <i>after</i> the slab has cracked. Slabs with post-tension cables are usually thinner and this can cut down on curing time and, ultimately, construction costs.<br />
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<div style="float: right; margin-left: 2em; width: 150px;"><img alt="Photo courtesy of the Kansas Department of Transportation" src="http://www.ksdot.org/interstate50th/images/PostTensionBridgelg.jpg" width="150" /><span style="font-size: 8pt; font-weight: bold;">Post-tensioning being used in the construction of a concrete bridge for a highway. Photo courtesy of the Kansas Department of Transportation</span></div>Post-tension concrete foundations are used not only in home construction, but in commercial construction. Since this method combines structural integrity and thinner pads, office buildings can have thinner floors but retain comfortable ceiling heights, which in turn reduces total building height and weight load.<br />
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<h2>Caveats</h2><br />
With all that said, one must keep in mind that post tension foundations do not solve the underlying soil's ability to handle moisture. That is, just because a home or business is built on a foundation with post tension cables, it doesn't mean that the soil on which that foundation rests quits expanding and contracting as the moisture content changes. Post tension foundations can still shifting or even failing. You must still perform essential foundation maintenance, such as maintaining a consistent moisture content within the soil, keep tree roots at bay, and watching for signs of foundation failure like cracks in the wall, stuck doors and windows, wrinkled wallpaper, and popped or loose floor tiles.<br />
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If a builder tells you that a post tension foundation solves all your problems and you'll never have to worry, then <i>run</i> — don't walk — and find yourself another builder! Remember, the builder is trying to sell you the house, but you're the one who must live with the purchase for years to come.<br />
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Have questions or want more information? Then visit us at <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com/">www.AceFoundation.com</a> or give us a call at 972-272-1900.Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7861477092074849581.post-52692370376480648972010-10-14T05:10:00.001-05:002011-01-24T19:06:06.264-06:00Save That Paperwork!<p>Did you recently have your foundation repaired? If so, there's <a href="http://all-about-foundation-repair.blogspot.com/2010/07/what-to-do-after-your-foundation-has.html">a few things you need to do</a>.</p><p><em>However, the number one thing you need to do is file away the paperwork from the repair job.</em></p><p>Put the paperwork somewhere safe yet easily accessible. There are a variety of reasons you may need it, including:</p><ul><li>If you see new signs of foundation failure</li>
<li>Have a homeowners insurance claim that might be related to the foundation</li>
<li>You sell your home</li>
</ul><p>You should include in the paperwork the following items:</p><ul><li>Any receipts and invoices for the work performed</li>
<li>The original estimate</li>
<li>Any drawings and descriptions of the work performed</li>
<li>The warranty</li>
</ul><p>In a pinch, you can always call the foundation repair company that did the work and ask them for a copy of the paperwork if and when you need it, but it's much easier and quicker if you can put your hands on the paperwork yourself.</p><p>Get more information by visiting <a href="http://www.acefoundation.com">www.AceFoundation.com</a>.</p>Ace Foundation Repairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06643957637440887489noreply@blogger.com0