What Cold Weather Means for Your Foundation

When we think about building foundation problems in north Texas, we tend to think about Summer. Perhaps it's our nearly perennial droughts or maybe it's because we're outside in the yard more and we notice the soil more. In any case, you're among good company if thoughts of foundation problems are few and far between this time of year.

But, for all the Summer conditions that lead to foundation problems, there's a Winter condition, too. First off, where soil contracts due to lack of moisture during the Summer, it can expand during the Winter as ice storms, rains, and cold temperatures keep more water in the soil. Expanding soil can push a foundation upward; this is caused heave.

And, while we don't have the brutally cold winters like Chicago or Minnesota, it does indeed get cold in north Texas and southern Oklahoma. Frost damage can occur to foundations with unheated slabs on grade. Frost heave is caused when ice forms within the soil, causing overall volume of soil to increase. When the volume of soil increases, it can heave the foundation.

What can you do to prevent problems like excess moisture and frost heave? Try the following:

• Keep an eye out for the usual signs of foundation damage: cracks in the sheet rock, newly wrinkled wallpaper, stuck windows and doors, popped floor tiles, cracks in the fireplace, etc. Call a foundation repair professional if you see one or more of these problems and get an expert opinion right away.
• The next time it rains, pull on a coat and some waterproof shoes or boots and take a walk around the exterior of your home. This is your chance to look for puddles against the foundation. You do not want water against the foundation! Wherever you find water pooling against the house, mark it with a stake or other marker. Hire someone to fix the drainage at these points. (Or, you can do it yourself.)
• Check outdoor spigots and your sprinkler system for cracks and freezes. These items are your first line of defense come Spring and Summer, but now's the time that these items freeze and break.

These simple winter foundation maintenance tips can make a big difference between comfort, costs, and your family's piece of mind — so be sure to take a few minutes now so you won't have big problems later.

Get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.

A Great Soaker Hose Tip

In our last post, we discussed soaker hoses and regulating the moisture around and under your foundation. This time around, we have a tip for a problem many people have when using soaker hoses.

What do you do if, by the time you've connected all your soaker hoses together, there's not enough pressure at the end of the last hose?

The first thing you need to do is understand why this occurs. The pressure is dropping at the end of the hose because there's too much hose for the amount of pressure provided at the water spigot. By the time the water reaches the farthest lengths of the hose, the pressure has dropped so much that the water isn't forced out the tiny perforations in the soaker hose.

The next thing to do is to see if there are additional water spigots you can use. Instead of stringing all your soaker hoses from one spigot, split your soaker hoses among two or more. If you're afraid of using all your spigots for just soaker hoses, you can purchase multi-headed spigots that attach to the spigot coming out of the wall. That way, you can hook up the soaker hose and still have a connection free for other uses when you're not using the soaker hose.

If you can't use additional spigots, you can alternate traditional hoses with soaker hoses. Since a traditional hose doesn't lose water from the tiny perforations like a soaker hose does, then it maintains a higher pressure through its length. With a combination of soaker hoses and regular garden hoses, you can reach the farther parts of your foundation and still maintain adequate pressure. You may have to run two sets of alternating hoses (call them Line A and Line B). Make sure when setting the two lines that where Line A's soaker hose(s) alternate with Line B's soaker hoses. When it comes time to use the soaker hoses (about once or twice a week, depending on soil conditions), connect Line A and run for 30 or more minutes, then disconnect and run Line B for 30 or more minutes. In this way, you'll water the entire perimeter of the foundation, yet each hose is only responsible for half the task.

Get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.

Soaker Hoses, Revisited

With all the rain we had in September, you might think we're nuts to be talking about soaker hoses again, but there's a good reason.

Soaker hoses are one of the best tools in the homeowner's toolbox for regulating soil moisture. Now that we're approaching the end of summer, it's a good time to get outside and check your soaker hoses for proper placement and overall condition. Make sure the soaker hose is buried about three inches deep and about six inches from the edge of the foundation so that the soil is soaked evening.

Do not place the hose against the foundation. Water placed next to the foundation (say, provided by a soaker hose placed against the foundation) runs through the cracks and pools at the bottom of the grade beam. (The grade beam is the thick portion of the foundation that is under the exterior walls.) The accumulation of water at the base of a foundation over time can reduce the soil's capacity to bear a load. When the soil loses enough load bearing capacity, the foundation will sink and your house can be damaged!

While you're checking the soaker hoses' position, don't forget to check the condition of the hose. Soaker hoses are pretty simple things. If you find a leak, tape it using duct tape (or similar tape -- ask at your local hardware store for appropriate substitutes). If the soaker hose is cracked or leaking from one of the fixtures or connections, replace the hose. The few dollars you spend on a new hose is a whole lot let than you'll spend on foundation repair.

Do you have questions about soaker hoses and your foundation? Then ask us!  In fact, you can ask us anything about foundation construction, repair, and maintenance. We love questions, so ask away!

Get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.

Save That Paperwork!

Did you recently have your foundation repaired? If so, there's a few things you need to do.

However, the number one thing you need to do is file away the paperwork from the repair job.

Put the paperwork somewhere safe yet easily accessible. There are a variety of reasons you may need it, including:

• If you see new signs of foundation failure
• Have a homeowners insurance claim that might be related to the foundation
• You sell your home

You should include in the paperwork the following items:

• Any receipts and invoices for the work performed
• The original estimate
• Any drawings and descriptions of the work performed
• The warranty

In a pinch, you can always call the foundation repair company that did the work and ask them for a copy of the paperwork if and when you need it, but it's much easier and quicker if you can put your hands on the paperwork yourself.

Get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.

What to do AFTER You've Had Your Foundation Leveled

If you've had your foundation leveled, you may think you're out of the woods. Well, you are for now, but that doesn't mean you can forget about your foundation altogether. You wouldn't get the brakes fixed on your car and then forget basic periodic auto maintenance, would you?

So, what do you do after foundation repair? Easy! You do the same things you normally do: keep the moisture constant, look for signs of new problems, and consult a structural engineer when you are considering additions to your home. Specifically, you should take these steps:

• Make sure the soil around and under your house foundation keeps a constant moisture content. You know the drill, we've covered it numerous times.
• Take time to look over your house and see if there are any new signs of foundation failure. We're not trying to scare you or say that the foundation repair work you've just had done subpar; we saying that if you've had one part of the foundation fixed or level, that doesn't mean the rest of the foundation (or the house) is immune to problems. Look for cracked walls, cracked or popped floor tiles, wrinkled wallpaper, creaking hardwood and laminate floors, and other issues.
• Review your landscaping and make sure you have no trees or large shrubs adjacent to the foundation. If necessary install root barriers.

Remember, you've just spent quite a bit of money and time getting your foundation fixed. Protect that investment and the rest of your home by performing basic foundation maintenance. Get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.

Rainy Season Isn't Over, Yet. (Part 2)

In the last post, we discussed some of the heavier rains we can get even in summer and what you can do about them. Specifically, we discussed drainage and what you can do to keep your foundation in good shape. Today, we continue those thoughts.

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, water can still get under a slab. What do you do then? Here's a few thoughts:

Install Moisture Barriers

Moisture barriers are vertical layers of plastic that are buried in the ground. As water flows up against a moisture barrier, it is stopped and prevented from getting under a home.

Install French Drains

French Drains are trenches filled with gravel that have a drain line buried in the gravel. French drains are designed to intercept and remove underground water.

Install Under Slab Drains

Rarely, it is necessary to tunnel under a foundation and install drains in thetunnels to collect and remove water. Drainage tunnels are dug by hand and typically measure 3 feet wide and 3 feet deep.

If you have more questions about what you can do, then ask us. Plus, get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.

Rainy Season Isn't Over, Yet.

Summer is finally here and it's going to be a hot one, but that doesn't mean no more rain. While we're several hundred miles inland, we still get rains from the occasional Texas or Louisiana tropical depression, storm, or hurricane. What's interesting about these rains is that they're heavy and can last several days. It's rains like this that really put your drainage systems (and ultimately your foundation's well-being) to the test.

Here's a handful of tips to make sure your drainage (and your foundation) are ready for whatever Mother Nature throws at it.

Installs Gutters and Downspouts

These are the first things added as they are the easiest way to drain a foundation.

Adjust Slopes

The next step is, if possible, to slope the ground away from the foundation. Typically a slope of an inch a foot for each 4 to 5 feet is adequate as long as water is not allowed to stand within 10 feet of a foundation.

Installs Drains

If grading is not possible, area drains, drains that collect surface water are installed. In some situations, shallow French Drains are used as a solution.

Water Direction

Advanced's focus is to, when possible, direct water into a street, drainage ditch, or swale. A swale is simply a very shallow ditch that is used to carry off water.

Look for more tips in our next post! Or, get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.

Use This Checklist Before Signing a Foundation Repair Contract

Since many home owners and other property owners are about to start on foundation repair (and other projects), now is a good time to think about the contracts you may see. Don't ever sign a contract without reading it first or having it explained to you. With that said, there's several things you need to consider before signing that foundation repair contract. Here's a short checklist you can use to see if things measure up.

• Ask an independent structural engineer (or two or three) for recommendations of a good foundation repair business. Look in the local phone book under "Structural Engineers" or search the web. Ask if the structural engineer is independent or under the employment of a foundation repair company. You want an unbiased opinion and recommendation, so you'll want an independent structural engineer.
• Get at least three local references from the foundation repair company you are considering using. Call these references and find out what they think of the price, the service, the clean-up, etc.
• Ask if the foundation repair companies you're considering handle all the necessary permits. It's rare that they'd make the property owner do it -- but be sure to ask. Red flags should go up if they tell you no permits are needed.
• Find out if permit fees are included in the price quoted in the contract. You don't want to be surprised with additional bills or invoices once the work is under way!
• Make sure you understand when the work will start and when it will end. You should have firm dates for both milestones.
• Is the foundation repair business insured and/or bonded? Did they have proof of this?
• Does the contract explain exactly what will be done, how many piers will be used, and a description of other materials used? Does the contract explain what type of piers will be used? Does the contract explain what will be done once the work is completed? Is the foundation repair company responsible for clean-up and so forth? Is the cost of clean-up included in the price given in the contract?
• Is there a down payment required? Do you understand how much is required for the down payment and how the payment should be made?
• Is there a schedule of payments? Red flags should go up if the foundation repair contractor is asking for full payment before the work is completed.

Finally, go with your gut feeling and intuition. If something doesn't feel write about the contract or the transaction or the foundation repair company, then stop and address the problem. Remember, it's your home or business and you will have to live with (or work in) the building long after the contractor is gone.
Get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.

What's Going on With the Wallpaper?

Who would think your foundation would have anything to do with your wallpaper? Hang on and we'll explain.

When your foundation shifts — either up or down or back and forth — it doesn't necessarily move the entire house and what does move doesn't always move in the same direction or the same amount! What this means for your walls and floors is that the angles between the walls and the ceilings and the floors are no longer 90 degrees. To complicate things, the walls or ceilings or floors (or two of or all three) can bow out or bend inward. When this happens, your sheet rock may crack or your wallpaper may wrinkle or stretch.

If your wallpaper was picture perfect at one time but now it's stretched or wrinkled, then you may want to consider having your foundation inspected. If you have wall paper problems plus you have one or more doors or windows sticking, or you see cracks in the walls, or you see other symptoms, then it's definitely time for a foundation inspection.

Get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.

It's Time to Find the Soaker Hose!

With temperatures in the North Texas area -- particularly in the DFW Metroplex -- hitting the mid- to high nineties, it's time to run through a list of things to do as summer settles in.

Naturally, you've done the obvious things:

• Air conditioner charged and running, plus new air filter(s) in place? Check!
• Roof vents and attic ventilators uncovered, clear, and ready? Check!
• Swimming pool clean and pumps running? Check!
• Grill cleaned and plenty of charcoal on hand? Check!

Now, how about those less obvious items? How about taking care of the foundation? While not one of the most glamorous things you can do around the house as we get ready for summer, taking care of your foundation is one of the most important. Neglect the simple things like your foundation now and you'll be paying for it (literally!) down the road.

One of the easiest yet most effective ways to ensure your foundation stays in good shape is to regulate the moisture in the soil in and around the foundation. While you can't control how hot it gets, you can control how much moisture is in the soil. To do this, you water the soil around your house foundation on a regular basis throughout the summer and our seasonal drought period. The best tool for the job is a soaker hose, which distributes the water consistently and slowly.

The best way to use a soaker hose is to bury the hose three inches deep. You want to place the hose six inches from the edge of the foundation so that the soil is soaked evening.

Do not place the hose against the foundation. When the soil around your foundation is dried and cracked, water placed next to the foundation (via a soaker hose) runs through the cracks and then pools at the bottom of the grade beam (the thick portion of the foundation that is under the exterior walls). If this condition persist long enough, then this accumulation of water at the base of a foundation can reduce the soil's load bearing capacity. When the soil loses enough load bearing capacity, the foundation will sink and your house can be damaged.

During our hot and dry summers, it's necessary to water more. You'd be surprised at the amount of water necessary to keep a foundation stable during our hot Texas summers. Keep in mind that your landscaping has an effect, as well. One large tree (like our beautiful oaks and pecans, found all over North Texas) can pull up to 150 gallons of water from the soil each day. And, don't forget what bushes, shrubs, and other plants also remove water from the soil.

The trick to using soaker hoses to keep the soil west is consistency. You do not want to water extensively, let the soil dry out, and then water again. If you do that, you are only contributing to the shrink-and-swell cycle of the soil. Be sure to water on a consistent schedule and keep the soil wet. (Be sure to poke a finger into the soil or poke around with a stick. You want the moisture to go beyond just the surface.) You may find it necessary to run the soaker hoses almost daily during the peak of summer.

If you're concerned about your water bill, keep this in mind. Water will cost you cents a day but foundation repair can run into the thousands! Decide which you'd rather bear: a few cents a day or a big wallop in the wallet all at one time later.

So, do some grilling, do some laps in the pool, enjoy your air conditioning and don't forget to take care of your foundation so your home is trouble free and enjoyable.

Get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.

10 Steps to Better Foundation Maintenace, Part II

Here's the second part of our ten tips for keeping your foundation happy. You can find the first 5 tips here.

1. Make sure that the soil around your foundation is graded so that the water flows away from the building. The grade should drop 4 to 6 inches in 4 to 6 feet.
2. Use soaker hoses around your foundation to keep the soil damp during dry periods. Learn more about soaker hoses and your foundation here.
3. Trim most of the shrubs around your house so that they are 3 feet tall or shorter. Large plants need lots of water, which can cause foundation problems.
4. Make sure that all paved surfaces (driveways, sidewalks, patios, pool decks, etc.) that slope away from your foundation.
5. Check the soil around your foundation. It should be between 2 to 4 inches below the brick line or edge of your siding. Soil helps hold the water in the ground and reduces seasonal settlement.

Get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.

10 Steps to Better Foundation Maintenace, Part I

We're breaking this topic into 2 parts. Here's the first part.

1. Check your sprinker system and swimming pool. Leaky sprinkler lines and pool circulating systems can cause foundation problems. It's a good idea to have your lines tested for leaks every two to three years.
2. If you're lucky enough have large trees around your house, consider installing root barriers to keep the trees from pulling water out from under the foundation. This is especially important if the trees are closer to your foundation that the height of the trees.
3. Avoid trapping water against the foundation. Water can be trapped against the building by raised flower beds, metal edging or other landscaping borders that do not have drainage holes, and sidewalks can prevent water from draining away from your foundation. If the water doesn't drain properly, it can pool or gather and cause uneven soil moisture and, ultimately foundation problems.
4. If your sewers back up or become block, you should have them tested for leaks. Many sewer blockages are caused by tree roots. These roots either cause or have found openings in your sewer lines.
5. Use downspout extensions or splash blocks on all down spouts. Downspout extensions are inexpensive and can be purchased at any home repair store (The Home Depot, Lowes Home Improvement, Ace Hardware, etc.).
   

Look for more tips this Thursday. And don't forget, there's always more information at www.AceFoundation.com.

Controlled Watering Can Save Your Foundation

The Texas summer has settled in and -- at least here in the DFW Metroplex -- we're seeing a drought.

Keep in mind that your home's foundation moves up and down as the soil's moisture content changes. As long as foundation movement isn't much and doesn't damage the house, this up and down movement isn't a problem.

Using a controlled watering program keeps the soil's moisture content constant, thereby minimizing your home's foundation movement.

The simplest and least expensive way to water the soil around and under your foundation is with common soaker hoses. You can bury a soaker hose three inches deep and six inches from the edge of your foundation. By placing the hose so close to the foundation, the water to soak into the soil evenly.

Do not place hose directly against the foundation. When soil is dried and cracked (like what we get during the summer here in Dallas-Fort Worth), water travels along the cracks. This can cause the water to accumulate at the bottom of the grade beam. This water can then can cause the soil to loose some of its load bearing capacity. This will produce its own foundation problems. So, again, do not place the hose directly against the foundation but, rather, a short distance (less than a foot) from the foundation.

Follow these watering tips and you can help protect your foundation.

Get more information by visiting www.AceFoundation.com.